Ahlan wa-Sahlan

Jordanian hospitality is world renound and I have really gotten a sense of it in the last couple of days. This strong sense of hospitality that is ingrained into the Jordanian culture is something that comes from the bedouins, who are known for their accommodating nature. Even if you are foreign and don't speak the language, if you come up on a tent of bedouins, they will invite you in for some tea and snacks.

Here in Amman, I've seen this in action. A few days ago, I went with my host sister to the Dead Sea in the evening because she had to go there for work. On the way, her car began to make noise and a "stop" light on the dash began flashing. We pulled off the road by a little snack stand and waited for her friend to come get us. While we we there, a man pulled up to the stand to get a pack of cigarettes. He saw us sitting and asked what was wrong. Najwan told him the car wasn't working and he proceeded to pop the hood and look around. He couldn't figure out what was wrong, but the fact that he stayed for about 15 minutes trying to help said a lot. You probably wouldn't see something like that happen in many other places in the world.

Yesterday, I took the public bus for the first time. I really hate the taxis because the drivers tend to be creeps with snowflake fever... but, I managed to get on the right bus, and the driver knew I was nervous so he kept telling me where we were, where to get off, etc. A bit before my stop, a woman sitting behind me tapped me on the shoulder and asked me if I was going to the 7th circle. I said yes, and she said she was going there, too and that she would take me and tell me how to get home. We got off at the stop together and she walked with me for a bit and we talked until it was time to part ways. Her name was Rasha and her kindness amazed me and completely made my day. Doing something small like that can mean the world to a foreigner. It made me feel like I am actually welcome here and that no one (for the most part) is out to get me. Similarly today, a couple of older men saw that I was looking nervous and helped me find the correct bus.

This welcoming and hospitable nature is something that makes Jordan and its people unique and is a huge part of why I am really beginning to like it a lot here. It is a social obligation to be this way, but they are still very sincere about it... it is natural for them because its. This, combined with the closeness that families and friends share here, makes for a really interesting environment. The social life is really a bit too intense for me right now and I am still getting used to it; but it is nice at the root of it. Aside from smoking and staring, visiting friends and family is a Jordanian national sport. There are always people coming in and out of the house or we are going to someone's house. I think this is the first night since I've been here that we haven't gone somewhere or that someone has came here; but it is still early. I would not be surprised one bit if 5 people just showed up in the next hour or so. Not to mention, sometimes you will go over to someones house and it is just you and them. Soon, their entire family will begin to trickle in and before you know it a little tea and snack gathering with 4-5 people turns into 10+ people with kids running around and playing. I've only been here one week and I already feel like I've met half of Amman. I think it's nice that people are so close and connected, but it's waaay too extreme here for me. I love my personal space, time and freedom- ALOT- and I find this social protocol overwhelming right now; but in general, I like the idea of it. I like how close they are and how much they care about one another-- even strangers. It makes me sad in some ways because I see such social decay in America. We let one another fall by the wayside without blinking an eye. I'm not trying to make a huge moral argument here that we should start taking in homeless people and take care of everyone else all the time, but would it hurt us to make small gestures to one another or reach out a bit more? We become so concerned and wrapped up in our own lives and dealings that we forget about those around us. We are very closed off from each other and fear everyone we don't know; sometimes to very extreme levels. When is the last time you spoke to your neighbor? Do you even know your neighbor's name? What's more, have you ever sat and had a drink and shared some small talk with your neighbor? As a hermit and person with loner tendencies, I am guilty of this as well. I couldn't handle the intense social life that is the norm here ALL the time-- it has only been one week and I already feel burnt out from it. But, I think I can take away some things from this and reach out more to those already in my life and those who aren't. I think too many Americans lose sight of what is important and those who define them... I don't want to be that way. Just something to think about.